6. Baracoa. March 8, 2018

At breakfast we get the news that there are boats that can take us over the river. They don't mention what kind of boat but obviously big enough for both bikes and bikers. So, off we go.
The river is very high, and very fast, and very brown. Roland is looking at it as if he is considering crossing. I am negotiating with a mule-and-wagon owner. 5 CUC for transport to the boat. Not possible to bike. Ok. This is big business for the locals, soon competitors show up. The wagon is made for two people but we manage to squeeze in bikes, packs, driver and us. The mule does a terrific job, dragging us through this 1,5 k of deep mud and big holes. Next negotiation is, how much is it worth to get over the river. There is a wooden rowing boat. "10 CUC." "No, tropo caro. 5 CUC." "No." "10 CUC per tres personas et bicis." "Ok." Deal. Our friend John from Ireland has also turned up at the shore so we are including him in the deal. The loading of the vessel begins. Three bikes. Three bikers, they kindly provide us with floating devices from the seventies or so. Eight luggage. Three big men including the biggest one that place himself at the oars. Bike wheels hanging out on both sides. Roaring river. Ten centimeters of freeboard. Ok, sit still in the middle and don't breath. The rower turns the bow towards the rapids and off we go. He's muscles work hard, like the mule's. And in some mysterious way, we arrive at the other shore, just when we are sure we are going to be washed out into the ocean.

Baracoa is fantastic, just as vivid and colorful and special as the description in Lonely Planet. We have a 5 peso pizza lunch in one of the parks, between two rain showers. They get up to 25000 mm of the wet stuff here every year. That is 25 meter! Big waves crush against the Malécon of Baracoa, but wettest is me who get splashed by a truck passing by. We warm ourselves in Casa de Cocoa, hot chocolate with rum. And eat a bunch of tiny yellow bananas. They are truly addictive. We bought them directly from a guy in the street, who grows them in his garden. They have matured in the sun and never got in contact with pesticides. They are probably related to the bananas we buy at Safeway, but I doubt it.
Roland is reading a book named Sapiens, about human history. The description in the book of life in a town a couple of hundred years ago is what we experience looking out from our balcony at the casa particular where we are staying.