Tuesday, January 23, 2018

9. Guantánamo - Santiago. March 12

"The problem on this 89 k ride will probably not be the hills, but the heat." Quote from the excellent guide book Cycle on Cuba. Written by two very experienced Cuba bikers, so right they are!

Food is great in our Guantánamo casa. Abundant and very, very tasty. Last night we had camarones (scrimps) in a red sauce. The breakfast is wonderful, with a mountain of fresh fruit and bread made of wholewheat. The only time we seen this and not the standardized white that they sell att the state own bakeries. Baking is not on the list of what you are allowed to do to earn your own money.

Leaving town is a near death experience. The air is So Bad. And why does this cyklist have to put out his arm a tenth of a second before he turns ninety degrees left and causes five vehicles including myself to put on emergency brakes.

Hilly means beautiful. Little more traffic than usual, read bad air. But we are going between two big cities. Guantánamo (250 000) and Santiago (500 000). Best is the autopista with loads of room and a special lane for slow vehicles.
We stop for lunch in Maya. Nice little town. It is market day, but nothing to buy. All the stands has run out of Everything.  But we made sandwiches at breakfast and manage to get some cold lemon pop.

There is a tunnel, with a sign saying no bikes. Having heard stories about tourists ending up in Cuban prisons for a number of reasons I suggest we take the detour. Bad idea, we end up in a steep "no road" leading out in the middle of nowhere. After some asking we are back on track and reach Santiago.

Santiago is just terrible with all the traffic and smoke. It takes forever to find our casa which is in an apartment house. Totally pooped, we have to carry the bikes, up, up, up three stairs. A cold beer and a shower, and then life is good again. And this Casa Margarita is very special, we feel like members of the family and are treated with a superb dinner including curry soup, avocado, beets in olive oil. And of course the protein, think it was fish, and the rice, and the fried platanos. And even pudding!

Tomorrow we will give this dirty, smelly, hustling city a chance.

I admit, it was a bad idea not using the forbidden tunnel

Entering Santiago. So this town is supposed to be hygienic and disciplined. LOL

Dressed up for surviving the fumes of Santiago

Our super nice hostess at Casa Margarita

Interesting apartment on third floor with open air, meaning rain comes right into the living room. 
Our bikes are well protected thou. 


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